If the pattern has you decrease evenly between the bicep and the neck, add your new decreases at the top and bottom. A beautiful raglan sweater with a gorgeous cable design. Interested in getting technical content, inspiration, and fit tips delivered directly to your inbox? The factors are Snug = 2"; Comfortable = 4"; and Loose = 6". Raglan length goes all the way up to your shoulder so it will be different for every sweater depending on neck width, depth. Determine how deep you want the front neck to be - desired front neck depth, This might be a good time to talk about the goal of short rows. I am in a happy place. the example covers shaping a sleeve, but the formula can be applied to any shaping you want. A child's proportions Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. Because all the stitches stay on the needle, there would be a large gap between stitches. Check out the illustration. As an extra special bonus from baa ram ewe, youll also get a discount code for 10% off their Dovestone DK yarn for the same time period. If the front neckline is deep (like a scoop or v-neck), the whole sweater may slide down the back. March 8, 2012 - Lauren. A raglan is a shoulder construction where the sleeves come all the way up to the neck. You'll want to add no more than about 5/8" right beneath the collar, and if you need to make up extra length you can work some short rows in the middle of the back too. Heres the thing - if youre used to working the same shaping all the way from the neck to the underarm, you may have noticed that creates a very straight line, and fundamentally is making a rectangular pyramid. I enjoy raglan sweater knitting, and I know you will, too. The pattern you will get from this process will be a guideline to making a I have included mostly simple sweaters using the raglan sweater construction. The raglan sleeve is a popular choice for casual knitting projects. Welcome back to the Sweater Construction series! Im about to start knitting a top-down raglan sweater in the round with short rows in the back. Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top down and involves a long, slanted seam running from the neck to the underarm. I am also happy to see Dusty Road, which I managed to miss last summer-gorgeous both in color and construction. body or the arm length. Great for those new to crochet! These lines extend from the underarm up to the neckline finish. How would I increase these areas to get about a 2inch increase? If you've seen a pattern that has short rows that are worked just between the raglan columns in the back, you probably want to skip those rows. Use spreadsheet software to create custom grid paper that matches your gauge by adjusting the number of pixels in the rows and columns, and then applying a light gray outline to each cell. In a traditional raglan, you start with the neck size you want, increase the body and sleeves every second row or round until you get close to the body stitches you want. In a word, geometry. THE CIRCULAR YOKE Two ways of visualizing the circular-yoke sleeve and body. For each raglan curve, reflect it in its 'base': copy the three points defining a raglan curve onto a spare piece of tissue paper, carefully labelling the neckline and the centre front points; turn it over, then align the neckline and centre front points up with the main sheet. critical to the proper fit of any sweater pattern. The shaping of the sweater is based on raglan styling from the top down. Is this correct? For some women, the knitted sweater construction can result in sleeves appearing too short and too tight, and can create discomfort at the underarm and armhole. Add or subtract armhole depth, and those diagonal lines between body and sleeves (the raglan lines) change their slope. if you'll be casting on 16 underarm sts, you'll work raglan increases in the front/back until you have 83 sts, then 16 will be cast on at the underarm, giving you 99. . Isnt that cool? Pattern + overview / Part 1: Casting on and marking raglans / Part 2: Raglans and neck shaping / Part 3: Finishing the neck and yoke / Part 4: Separating the sleeves and body / Part 5: The art of sweater shaping / Epilogue: The possibilities are endless. Im familiar with the general concenpt, but unsure of how Ill know where to start the raglan increases. So, the basic structure of the raglan shaping begins at the neck with increases on the body and sleeves on every round, then it changes to alternating between 1 round of body and sleeve increases and 1 round of shaping on either body OR sleeves (depending on the size), then it changes to working increases on the body and sleeves every other In the picture to the left, the top swatch is worked with short rows and the bottom is worked with bind-offs, but the shaping is the exact same. If you are accustomed to Posted on 28 Jan 15:32, The Ripening of the Raspberry Cheesecake Capelet Posted on 27 Oct 18:04, New & Improved - Stormy Top Posted on 13 Oct 23:59, It's time for Autumn Field Socks! Because knitting is a matter of individual abilities You can use cm - it all works the same. Its comfy and the style is flattering, if I do say so myself. Fortunately, we crocheters and knitters have control over our own garments, and theres no rule demanding a smooth, straight raglan line. To allow for a better fitting neckline on crew neck raglan pullovers, designers will add short row shaping along the back of the neck to raise the back above the front . All Rights Reserved. The pattern is generated so that you can use any size knitting needle with any weight yarn. Then I admitted to making several top-down raglans as I explained how Id adapt a knitting pattern for yet another one. You can use Kniterator to DIY your own basic top-down raglan sweater, yoke sweater, camisole, or cowl - all in your size and your gauge. This gives each section a triangular shape. All of the shaping is the same, only instead of turning away from stitches, youll bind them off. But you wouldn't solve this by working right back and forth across between the back raglans. Beginning at the neckline the sleeve cap expands to become the shoulder of the garment. Remember - what we're doing with short rows is leaving some stitches in the front unworked. (Not that I expect special treatment for my giant head children) You will also have a clearer sense right away if you are going to run out of yarn or not, as you will be able to see the full progress of the entire garment as you knit it. With the left needle tip, reach down and pick up the left leg of the stitch 2 rows below the stitch on your right needle. This creates a wider or narrower seam along the raglan. NOTE: subtract F from this number to get the number you are increasing to during the raglan shaping. I love the lace. If you opt for the top down construction of this style of sweater it can easily be tried on by slipping it off the needle and onto some waste yarn or multiple circular needles. The content is awesome. 5. Copyright 2023, Kristen TenDyke Designs | Powered by Shopify. You can add an inch or two here easily, and the whole sweater will be wider in the front only. This method makes the pattern fit your gauge. Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. If rows used in shaping is MORE rows than you calculated when you worked out desired neck depth, youll need to either increase the number of bottom neck stitches or work more rate A rows. Have a full bust and tum? Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method The pattern is generated so that you can use any size knitting needle with any weight yarn. The sleeve cap extends all the way to the neck edge. Additionally the increases allow for great creativity to highlight the style lines of the raglan seam. You also have a stitch count in the shoulder and neck. Im not using a pattern, but I guess there has to be some general rule for this. Here are five of the most common raglan adjustments that modern pattern designers use to create a better-fitting top-down seamless sweater. I have to learn a lot!. ), compound raglans can work better than traditional raglans on all body types; she uses compound shaping for all her raglan sweaters. What about when I get to the next sleeve? The Audubon Shrug by Lisa Shroyer, from her book, Knitting Plus.Raglan sweaters can be attractive on plus-size women, but its an issue of individual shape. Thanks so much for sharing you work, I really appreciate it!!! Any. It increases more rapidly between the neck and shoulders and at the end to curve around the underarm, [with] more gradual [increasing] in the section in between. Add a few extra raglan increases after you've split for the arms and body. The Slopes Pullover and Azure Lake Sweater feature circular-yoke shaping, decorated with seamless patterning. It would be back and forth in rows although you can still do it after you join in the round and then resume working in the round once the short rows are complete. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. Raglan: [biographical name] 1st Baron 1788-1855 FitzRoy James Henry Somerset British field marshal. Please confirm you want to block this member. The sleeve cap has to stretch over the outer joint of the shoulder and across the top of the shoulder to the neckline, requiring a flat plane of fabric to curve over an angled area. Thank you so much for this information. Working a smaller size and realize the yoke is too shallow? As Jennifer Wood explains in Refined Knits (and further explicated in a helpful emailthanks, Jennifer! This week we're going to talk about adding length to your sweater and adding optional waist-shaping. In Melissa Wherles Sigma Tee, she uses dropped stitches along the raglan sleeve shaping. This is post 7 of 7 in the series Sweater Construction Methods. Since I didn't shape out the last three stitches, and there's a final row to resolve the double stitches, the top one appears to have a gentle curve. The final stitches are then cast-on across the underarm. Cant wait to get going! In comparison to a sweater that is knit in small pieces and seamed together the one big piece may feel more cumbersome to work with as it grows into a sweater. The extended sleeve cap, which matches the yoke in depth and number of rows, has a diagonal tension (a line of stress in the fabric) that cuts across the outer arm and shoulder and can be uncomfortable for women with larger upper arms or broad shoulders. This might be a good time to talk about the goal of short rows. For a raglan to fit well, the yoke has to be deep enough for the rise of your shoulder (our shoulders are not flat lines across, but rise from the tip of the shoulder to the inside point of the neck), your armhole, and some wearing ease (usually about 1). And it addresses the difference between the stitch gauge and the row gauge which very rarely are equal. Heres Interweave Knits Editor and Knitting Plus author, Lisa Shroyer, to tell you more about raglan construction and how it works for plus-size knitting. Short rows keep us from knitting stitches. Thank you soon much for the tutorial. Now that weve checked out some of the benefits of this construction method, lets look at some drawbacks. We change narrow dramatically from the full bust to the mid-chest, more slowly through the mid-chest, and fast again as we approach the neck. The front neck can be shaped with short rows or by binding off in the middle and working decreases on either side. In contrast, the raglan line on Lily Chins Floret Crochet Crop Top, with traditional shaping, forms a straight line. Short rows cant accommodate long vertical lines because all the stitches stay live on the needle. Tell us, in the comments! raglans darts button hole placement skirt flares bias knitting gathered sleeves circular yokes If you need to increase (or decrease) a specific number of stitches within a specific number of rows there is a reliable way to calculate this. If youre used to knitting a shaping row every other row from the neck to the body, it can be a surprise to learn thats not always going to work. Love the changes. Everything after that is finessing. Beginning at the neck, the number of stitches on the front (s), back, and sleeves increase at regular intervals along these lines. In this video we learn how to use a formula to easily calculate shaping in knitting. Even when you adjust armhole depth on a sweater pattern and recalculate the raglan increases or decreases, youre going to see a smooth(ish) diagonal line between body and sleeves. Ex: If your trim will be 1 of ribbing, add 1 to this depth. It increases more rapidly between the neck and shoulders and at the end to curve around the underarm, [with] more gradual [increasing] in the section in between. These workshops are designed to be there every step of the way as you work on your chosen project. By understanding what the designer had in mind and what YOU need, you can intervene in an informed way. In August 2015 I released the book, Dovestone Hills, which coincided with the release of baa ram ewes Dovestone DK yarn. Knitting In the Round 3 Ways: DPNs, Two Circulars, or Magic Loop? The sleeves are worked from the top down starting with stitches picked up from around the armhole.. Its deep back covers any unsightly lumps we may have, and the tailored style is classic. In the final analysis, you may never come to love raglans, and thats okay. If you still have rows leftover, you can re-evaluate your neck depth or consider working bind-offs instead. These diagonal seams are created by regular decreases that gradually taper the yoke from the underarm width to the neck width. When I pick them up to begin my neck, those increase stitches look funny picked up and knitted. Now we see why the sweater might poof out just above the breasts or right at the armpit. Measure the distance straight down from the shoulder seam to the level where you want the neckline to be, in a line parallel to the button placket. You can find more info about Anne Marie and the services she offers here. It is really helpful! I am so grateful that you give examples and this excel file.Now I can start to design my own sweaters and I really happy and thankful. If youd like to see this in action, check out Soft Structure. Pattern + overview / Part 1: Casting on and marking raglans / Part 2: Raglans and neck shaping / Part 3: Finishing the neck and yoke / Part 4: Separating the sleeves and body / Part 5: The art of sweater shaping / Epilogue: The possibilities are endless. The raglan sweater style is fun to knit, and I love how the shaping becomes a design element. So cute for a summer tee, dont you think? If youd like to make a deeper neckline by binding off, you have so many choices! NOTE: The photos and methodology described in this post were both updated in August 2016. Because the shoulders and armholes are not well defined on a raglan sweater, there tends to be a little extra fabric in the underarm area. Im going to walk you through adding a shallow short-row neckline to a raglan thats knit in the round from the bottom up. One in about a 3-4T and the second will be about a Its a vertical measurement and you just apply your row gauge to the number of rows worked. Why dont traditional raglans always fit womens figures perfectly, even when designers, crocheters, and knitters have achieved the perfect armhole depth? For a raglan to fit correctly, you would typically increase/decrease on each side of the body (and at the front and back) and on each side of the sleeve on every right-side row or every other round if working in the round. Compound shaping bends the raglan line into gentle arcs. This size allows you to get a good measurement This will be the number of stitches in the last row before any decreases for ribbing. Typically patterns suggest a Backwards Loop Cast-On. Its going to be a bit more involved for a raglan sweater. But you can also use this information to modify a pattern you're working from. having a pattern that spells everything out to the letter I'm a bit of a nerd (ok, a really big one) and I've often wondered how I could create something like this. The waist shaping formula is exactly the same as above. Why? To work a raglan from the top down, you would begin at the neck edge and achieve the raglan shaping with increases. sts - stitches. If you turned your work at the same stitch over and over, youd create a vertical line, but you couldnt work the next row. If this is your first sweater I recommend starting with the Tilda pattern. The arm follows the same pattern, although to a less extreme degree. the example covers shaping a sleeve, but the formula can be applied to any shaping you want. Before launching into your short rows, you will need to calculate the number of rows youll be following the pattern instructions before beginning your neck shaping. For each raglan seam I do one increase before and a different one after it. The short rows may be worked all around the neckline, or just back and forth so that stitches are unworked in the front neck only. They dont necessarily need to be read in order but the more you know the better prepared you will be to decide which sweater construction method is best for you. At the underarm, a few stitches It should fit you but not be tight. It can be US or mm sizes. Very nice overview of techniques! A knitter who does excel! Knitters in larger sizes will often need to increase every row, and will need to add more body stitches than sleeve stitches. I was just wondering if you have any thoughts on this matter. This seemed like a perfect opportunity to talk a bit about different types of seamless construction as there are 4 different seamless methods used in Dovestone Hills. Sometimes, then, well see necklines that work well in the middle and larger sizes, but because the shoulder gets more narrow as sizes get smaller, the smallest sizes dont have adequate depth. Lily Chin said it first, and since her expert advice inspired and enhanced the series, she must be right! Heres the formula: Stitches to shape out / 2 = stitches used in shaping rate A (round this so its an even number), Youll eliminate the remaining stitches one per turn (work right up to the double stitch, then turn your work), Stitches to shape out stitches used in shaping rate A = stitches used in shaping rate B, Rows used in shaping: Rate A + (Rate B *2). Karen Templer of Fringe Association notes that when she employs compound shaping, she can use top-down raglan methods to produce a sweater with sleeves akin to saddle shoulder styles. A Free Bracelet Beading Pattern for Valentines Day. Its very rare that a raglan wont need front neck shaping - the shoulder width needs to be about six inches wide for that to work. One wonderful thing about raglan sweaters is that due to the method of increasing it is fairly simple to integrate patterns into the yoke and body of the sweater. The chest measurement is treated as the 100%; all other measurements are some portion of that measurement., This is a pattern for working the body of the sweater as one piece starting from the top. However you can still get a trim fit with the addition of waist or bust shaping. Stitch gauge information must be completed. UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? I just purchased Caelius to knit for my teen daughterit will be my first A-line sweater and I think the Dovestone DK is the perfect yarn. Please confirm you want to block this member. Pittsburgh, PA USA 15102. As near as I can tell, that's happening because the designer has heard that they need to add short rows to the back but they don't really understand why or how. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('interstitial-ad');}); Save patterns, share updates, and connect with your community. Add a few stitches to your bicep to give yourself some extra room. They look a little different at the top because of the final bind-off, but that difference disappears when you work in the round. You can definitely think critically about the instructions you encounter in patterns you follow or you could use it to write your own knitting pattern. On the right-hand side, you can see the bracket enclosing the whole yoke depth, which is made up of the raglan depth and half of the shoulder width. Count out and highlight a number of cells that corresponds to the number of neck shaping rows and the number of neck stitches, and draw the neckline you want to make. To do this neatly, you cast-on the underarm stitches and then join up the back of your body and work on to the other side. This is a useful construction that allows you to try on the sweater as you go. One question shows up again and again: What formula do you use to shape a raglan? This is awesome! When I think about it I think Im just following and exaggerating the way the individual stitches lean so it wouldnt matter- when I get to the next sleeve I would do them in the same order. You can work those short rows right up against each other the same way you can work one decrease every row when you bind off. Overall, consider how much neck depth the shoulder shaping is contributing, and evaluate how much additional depth neckline shaping adds. Put on a button-down or other non-stretch shirt with a shoulder seam. Yours is a major contribution and I would like to applaud you. Your continued efforts to share knowledge is a treasure and so encouraging to knitters of all experiences. The shaping of the sleeve must match the front and back shaping so that all the pieces fit together properly. Amy Herzog combines compound shaping with a seamed yoke, so that sleeves and body can be shaped independently of each othershe simply eases the pieces together as she seams, no matter how differently they curve. If you notice a garment has a funnel shape, thats coming from the shaping rate in the raglan (or if working a round yoke, in the yoke chart). Crafty Confessions: Do You Make a Gauge Swatch? IMO. That will tell you how your stitch counts change as you move from the underarm to the neck. Common misconception: all raglans increase in the front and body every other row and are seamless. There are some beautiful raglan sweaters out there that dont have neck shaping.
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